#ITLIST: NEW DESIGNERS
The four lines you need to know about.
A new batch of lookbooks and fashion films appear in front of us every day, we've become quite choosy when comes to featuring a new designer. It's hard to describe what it is that makes one collection stand out over another, but it can't be pigeonholed as something so simple as "technique" or "avant-garde." The one thing we know is that we're not looking for "the next (fill-in-the-blank)"; we're looking for the first.
Though it wasn't easy to file down, we've settled on four up-and-coming designers who each possess that inexplicable "It" quality, regardless of their differing style and technique. Check them out below, and if you like what you see, we recommend purchasing a few pieces before their prices skyrocket.
ALI HOFFMAN
The Line: Lily Ashwell
The Designer: Lily Ashwell
The Bio: Before settling into her “little shack by the beach” in Venice, California, Ashwell studied Central Saint Martins.
The Inspiration: “When I design a collection, I often begin with an image of a landscape. This collection being a freezing coastal town in Wales, where pastures and seaside collide. I also like to make season-less, trend-less pieces and in designing this collection, I tried to think of ways to make typically summertime clothes appropriate for the winter.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A pair of vintage overalls. “They've been worn and loved and repaired for so many years,” says Ashwell. “I bought them from my favorite vintage vendor at Spitafields in London and it’s the best 40 pounds I ever spent.”
The Line: NOVIS
The Designer: Jordana Warmflash
The Bio: Based in New York, Warmflash has an extensive fashion resume, including internships with Peter Som and Zac Posen, and working as a full-time designer for Alice + Olivia.
The Inspiration for Latest Collection: “A juxtaposition between textured fabrics/prints and structured architectural silhouettes.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A Kelly green vintage Halston coat. “It's the only item I get excited to wear when the weather starts to get cold in NYC,” explains Warmflash. “It makes the thought of winter a little more bearable!”
The Line: MEI New York
The Designer: Mei Zee
The Bio: Based in New York, Zee’s worked in the fashion industry for four years. She first conceived the idea for her collection a year and half ago.
The Inspiration for Latest Collection: “The naval and nautical elements of the beginning of the 20th Century. It pays tribute to the naval officer, its signature print was interpreted from Dazzle Camo ships from World War I [Dazzle Camo is such a marvel--it still blows my mind], and trims were chosen in lieu of scrimshaw. 'Port to Starboard' represents the palette of the sea, sand and sunset--shades of blue, green, sands, and a pop of coral.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A reversible souvenir jacket. “One side in emerald green with a golden dragon embroidery and one side in bright red with a map of the Himalayas. It's art. It's gorgeous.”
The Line: Maggy Frances
The Designer: Maggy Frances Schultz
The Bio: Based in New York, Frances travels to London frequently and has launched the line in both cities simultaneously.
The Inspiration for Latest Collection: “It’s mostly a mix of classic British bespoke tailoring and 1960s and '70s rock & roll glamour and flair--in particular, I think about the Rolling Stones, how they mixed textures and prints, but maintained an overall polish with classic, sharp tailoring.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A vintage 1960s Hermes Kelly bag. “It’s timeless and chic and always totally wearable.”
Though it wasn't easy to file down, we've settled on four up-and-coming designers who each possess that inexplicable "It" quality, regardless of their differing style and technique. Check them out below, and if you like what you see, we recommend purchasing a few pieces before their prices skyrocket.
ALI HOFFMAN
The Line: Lily Ashwell
The Designer: Lily Ashwell
The Bio: Before settling into her “little shack by the beach” in Venice, California, Ashwell studied Central Saint Martins.
The Inspiration: “When I design a collection, I often begin with an image of a landscape. This collection being a freezing coastal town in Wales, where pastures and seaside collide. I also like to make season-less, trend-less pieces and in designing this collection, I tried to think of ways to make typically summertime clothes appropriate for the winter.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A pair of vintage overalls. “They've been worn and loved and repaired for so many years,” says Ashwell. “I bought them from my favorite vintage vendor at Spitafields in London and it’s the best 40 pounds I ever spent.”
The Line: NOVIS
The Designer: Jordana Warmflash
The Bio: Based in New York, Warmflash has an extensive fashion resume, including internships with Peter Som and Zac Posen, and working as a full-time designer for Alice + Olivia.
The Inspiration for Latest Collection: “A juxtaposition between textured fabrics/prints and structured architectural silhouettes.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A Kelly green vintage Halston coat. “It's the only item I get excited to wear when the weather starts to get cold in NYC,” explains Warmflash. “It makes the thought of winter a little more bearable!”
The Line: MEI New York
The Designer: Mei Zee
The Bio: Based in New York, Zee’s worked in the fashion industry for four years. She first conceived the idea for her collection a year and half ago.
The Inspiration for Latest Collection: “The naval and nautical elements of the beginning of the 20th Century. It pays tribute to the naval officer, its signature print was interpreted from Dazzle Camo ships from World War I [Dazzle Camo is such a marvel--it still blows my mind], and trims were chosen in lieu of scrimshaw. 'Port to Starboard' represents the palette of the sea, sand and sunset--shades of blue, green, sands, and a pop of coral.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A reversible souvenir jacket. “One side in emerald green with a golden dragon embroidery and one side in bright red with a map of the Himalayas. It's art. It's gorgeous.”
The Line: Maggy Frances
The Designer: Maggy Frances Schultz
The Bio: Based in New York, Frances travels to London frequently and has launched the line in both cities simultaneously.
The Inspiration for Latest Collection: “It’s mostly a mix of classic British bespoke tailoring and 1960s and '70s rock & roll glamour and flair--in particular, I think about the Rolling Stones, how they mixed textures and prints, but maintained an overall polish with classic, sharp tailoring.”
The Can’t-Live-Without Item: A vintage 1960s Hermes Kelly bag. “It’s timeless and chic and always totally wearable.”
This story was published on October 18, 2012.
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