FAIR WEATHER TRENDS
New York Fashion Week has come to a close... So, what have we learned?
We whittled down the top trends of the season. Scroll down to see pictures from the shows below!
This story was published on September 14, 2007.
Just when you thought you’d seen your last margarita, designers have gone and declared chartreuse the color of spring. Derek Lam tucked silk chartreuse, embroidered peasant blouses into micro minis and Thakoon belted frocks from neckline to knee in the hue. Diesel saw the softer side of chartreuse per lemon-limey jumpsuits, skinny pants, and windbreaker-esque dress-jacket hybrids. But it was 3.1 Phillip Lim that perhaps said the shade best, saturating everything including a billowy shirt-dress, toggle pea coat, and high-waisted suit skirt.
Designers weren’t afraid to show a little skin this season, but as far as bathing costumes were concerned, modesty was the MO. Inspired by 1920s sportswear, Réyes sent Deauville-striped tank suits down the runway; for Michael Kors, it was the late ’70s’ ladies who lunch, exemplified by halter and bandeau tops in flower prints. At Abaeté, designer Laura Poretzky went for a “Miami Deco meets Gene Tierney” aesthetic with Riviera-ready, high-waisted pinup style malliots. And Tracy Reece incorporated two-pieces throughout the collection such as beneath cropped jackets.
MESH AND LACE
Speaking of showing a little skin… Preen promised us “soft and sensual fabrics fused with graphic sexy shapes,” and designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi delivered, sending out sheer silvery pieces that peeked out from behind satin parachute pants. BCBG Max Azria’s collection was brimming with mesh and tulle, from transparent jackets to wrap dresses and layered skirt overlays, in a palette of pastels and neutrals. For Calvin Klein, fluid silky sheers took the form of buttery-colored floor length shirt-dresses.
Apparently, animal prints will never go out of style. Derek Lam dressed his models in leopard print silk rompers and voluminous coats, tied leopard print scarves around their necks, and trimmed other desert ensembles like button-down safari suits with—you guessed it—leopard print sleeves. Inspired by “the fantasy of escaping to exotic lands,” Diane von Furstenberg explored a spectrum of safari looks, from cascading tulle dresses embossed with ethnic patterns to white linen staples topped with oversized, palm frond-printed tunics and head wraps. Tommy Hilfiger, Rag & Bone, and Michael Kors all incorporated plenty of khaki into their collections, but L.A.M.B. instead opted for edgier, silver-scale animal printed pieces.
Hats were everywhere for fall, thanks in part to milliner Albertus Swanepoel, who for Proenza Schouler this season, designed military inspired top hats, emblems and all, but with an air of humor per feathers and bobbles. Chris Benz’s wide-brimmed floppy hats complimented wide-legged pants and other pendulous silhouettes. And for Fashion Week first-timer Jen Kao, a combat style cap with sequined earflaps added the finishing touch to a matching black and blue vest.
Like fellow Aussie designers Tsubi and Alice McCall, Josh Goot is known for his eclectic prints and patterns. This spring, he sent out uncomplicated shift dresses and sleeveless tanks in vibrant, tie-dye-like hues and others in coalescing, metallic colors. The kaleidoscope color patterns in Rodarte’s collection, which ran the gamut from bright sapphire to earthy tones, were painted onto mesh, holey sweaters. Thakoon’s urban T-shit dresses boasted neon graphics, more feminine styles featured emerald-infused nautical prints, and amorphous jackets and skirts had flowery, haphazard patterns.
Thought capris had come and gone? Think again. MaxAzria’s dreamy collection of satin sleepwear-inspired pieces—slip dresses, chemises, and robes—was joined by cuffed, below-the-knee harem pants that sat low on the waist and flowed airily down the runway. Ports 1961 opted for a more leggings-like fit, and in place of MaxAzria’s bare midriff, layered a bum bag-belted tunic atop.
WHAT LIES BENEATH
Baring your bra straps was once a fashion faux pas, but this season was show and tell. Just barely noticeable through the plunging necklines at Bruce were bustiers and lace-up corsets, a subtle touch of sexiness to an otherwise classic and sophisticated collection. Tommy Hilfiger, however, had no bones about sporting cropped camisole-like bralets underneath all-American double-breasted blazers. And at Marc Jacobs, not only did trompe l'oeil-printed bras and bloomers peek out from behind abstract evening gowns, but a video projecting the models in their under-things pre-show ensured you didn’t miss a thing.